A key part to consider when designing plans for a new bathroom suite is to determine the number of “wet walls” that will have. A wet wall is a wall behind which are the pipes of the shower, sink and toilet. In general, the damp walls, the more expensive it will be to build the bathroom (but you’ll have more options design available). Design your own plan for a new bathroom will ensure that is appropriate to your needs.
- Using a tape measure, pencil and paper, measure the space in your home for the new bathroom and records this information on paper. For example, if you go to the bathroom where do you now have a closet, measures the depth and width of the cabinet.
- Draw on paper, using a ruler, a rectangle indicating the outer walls of the bathroom, reduced in scale to a practical size for planning.
- Draw on pieces of paper, bathroom accessories, you can test the location of the accessories placing them in different parts. The plans show what would be a view from above, accessories are the bathtub, sink, toilet, and other immovable items you want to put in the bathroom. You can draw ovals to represent objects or find pictures in books interior design. You can also look at websites.
- Create a design for the bathroom by placing strips of paper containing the accessories against the edges of the rectangle representing the walls of the bathroom.
- Take notes on the impressions that will produce different designs of the plane. Try not designing the bathroom so that they are too tight places, inaccessible or difficult to access.
- Continues to create new designs and evaluating, when you have a plan that you like, glue the strips of paper and trace the final design of a new sheet of paper.
You might be interested to learn carpentry to renew the floors in your home, cabinets, panels or frames, or would like to learn to participate in the workplace and work in the construction of bridges, concrete, scaffolding and tunnels. There are a variety of ways that you can learn about this industry. If you prefer to learn from your home, study at your own pace is now possible through various forms. You can also connect with other carpenter apprentices and experts in the field by a computer message boards and associations.
- Buy a book or beginners introduction to carpentry somewhere through web.
- Look DVDs (or VHS videos) issues about woodworking as “complete guide to install hardwood floors,” “The essence of rustic furniture,” “Making drawers” and “Making doors”, available in various places as a library.
- Post your questions or read the questions on Internet sites about woodworking. For example, “Expert advice on home improvement” has a section dedicated to woodworking, where information and issues such as “Installing boards in a workshop”, “How to build a seat for a window,” “shown the advantages of nail guns “and how to make a portable bench.
- Join an industry group as the official website of the Wood Workers Association (WWA). These organizations often provide links to the contact information of its members. For example, the WWA offers a collection of more than 2,300 views on tools, a section of questions and answers, a newsletter, chat groups and a collection of educational videos constantly growing.
- Starts a task to introduce you to the carpentry, how to make a wooden bucket. Build Easy websites like “Things to build” provide clear instructions for new carpenters together with lists of materials and tools, as well as photographs to help the project along. When you buy your cookware, requested help from the store clerk, is sure to put everything on hand before starting your project. Utensils economic gains since you’re just starting. You can invest in more expensive tools once you’ve gained more confidence.
A chimney cap or crown acts as a ceiling for this. The slope of the cover allows the water to flow away from the fireplace. When water seeps into the structure of the fireplace, can cause cracks in the masonry. Installing a chimney cap on will help prevent damage caused by water. These experience a lot of stress due to changes in temperature of the chimney and the pipe. To Inspect annually for cracks and damage.
- Measure the top of the chimney and the length, width and height of the tube.
- Build bottom of pan with plywood 3/4 inch (19 mm). Measures Take him to the top of the chimney and add 2 inches (5.08 cm) to cover protrude 2 inches (5.08 cm) on each side of the fireplace. Using circular table saw or plywood cut to the measure.
- Make the fireplace opening. In the center of the plywood draw the outline of the cutout to the tube by using the measures thereof. Add ¾ inch (19 mm) on each side of the line to leave the space between the tube and cover. Cut on this line to the exhaust pipe.
- Cut the pieces to form the tube outlet. Cut four pieces of plywood 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) long by the width of the tube. These parts fixed to the bottom of the mold to form the sides of the cutout. Place each piece against the inside of the cut so they are 4 ¾ inches (12.07 cm) high. Adjust screw bottom side to the bottom of the mold. Parts fixed to the ends of the piece next to it to create a small box with no bottom and no ceiling in the center of the mold.
- Cut the plywood of ½ inch (12.7 mm) to the sides of the mold. Cut four side pieces 3 ½ inches (9 cm) high by the width of the fireplace. Each piece attached to the sides of the bottom mold. Place the side pieces up so that they are 3½ inches (9 cm) tall and screw bottoms at the bottom of the mold. Screwing the ends of the lateral ends of the side beside them, this will create a box with a homeless smaller box without background in the center.
- Create a drip edge around the top wooden pegs sticking 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) in the bottom of the box to 1 inch (2.54 cm) away from sides of pan.
- Covering the mold with vegetable oil to prevent the mixture sticking, Portland cement mixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions, Pour the concrete into the mold. Alisa cement with a wooden board. Let the cement to set per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Cure the cement spraying with water every day for a week.
Tips & Warnings
- You can replace the hard mortar mixture of Portland cement
- The cement may cause irritation to the eyes, throat and skin. When working with the used gloves and goggles and cover your mouth.
Defining power transfer switch
A power transfer switch is a device that changes the source of power from one to another. Typically it is transferred from a main power source, such as the local company to a secondary power source, such as an emergency generator. The power transfer switch also changes the power to the main power supply emergency power when it is no longer necessary. The transfer switch keeps the two sources of energy isolated, allowing the safe transfer of a power source to the other.
Operation of electrical transfer switches
Electrical transfer switches often operate automatically, and the power switch is based on power levels just as real shots. They maintain a constant level monitoring circuit. Automatic can transfer energy without human intervention in the event of any power problem. In the case of a voltage change, as a drop in tension, compression, surge or spike, the circuit breaker will come into action.
Action auto transfer switch
When the automatic transfer switch detects a problem on the primary energy source, will begin the process of starting the emergency generator. Once the generator is running, and determined the correct voltage, the automatic transfer switch will switch the power to the generator. The switch will continue to monitor the primary power source, while the generator supplies the power. Once the primary source of power has been restored, the switch changes the power from the generator to the main power supply.
Types of automatic transfer switches
Alternatively, there are switches that require manual transfer switch so that the power source is switched. These switches are not as technologically advanced, and do not provide a control voltage dips, for example. Finally, using both switches transfer switching automatically or manually. They maintain critical processes in an automatic circuit and are not critical in a manual switch.
The floor is cement durable, inexpensive and usually as boring as a gray walkway. But this does not have to stay that way. Options may place coverage as linoleum floor or carpet simply changed in a few years or a gray paint layer of paint over the existing floor. These options can be unexciting; painting imitations of cobblestones in a concrete floor can be an inexpensive and creative alternative.
- Clean the area of use. Wipe barrels and mop, allow drying. Sand the area lightly with sandpaper and then clean the floor again. Let the floor dry for at least 24 hours.
- Apply sealant waterproof cement to seal the porous surface of the concrete floor using a large roller. The sealant acts as a unifying agent between concrete and paint and prevents bubbles and impurities. Your work will be better with the sealant below, so do not slates this step.
- Draw the design of the pavers using templates or freehand. Do randomly, but gently together and forms should not have to be perfect rocks represent, but should be similar in size.
- Paint the stones with two coats of paint to cement cobble tone or tone softer ground you can use. Use a small roller. Leave a space of 24 hours drying time between coats.
- Apply paint dark gray, brown or terracotta edges of each paver to highlight and apply shadows. Use sponges to paint. Let dry for 24 hours.
- Apply at least two coats of clear sealer with a big roller, allowing the sealer to dry for about 24 hours between coats. Let dry for three or four days before walking on the floor.
Tips & Warnings
- The instruction manuals and equipment for these projects are available online or at craft stores.
- A team of two component epoxy paint is more durable and more expensive than cement paint. The transparent oil-based polyurethane is better than the variety in water, but tend to turn yellow over time
- The cement dye can also work for this project, but keep in mind it will give an unpredictable and permanent project to the surface color.
- The water-based paints are better for your health and for the environment, but not always last as long as oil paints or epoxy. Note the location of your project: the high traffic areas or who are exposed to climate change may require a more durable paint.
- If you use epoxy paint instead of latex, takes safety measures, the epoxy is extremely toxic. Also, if you are not properly mix could be always wet.
Successfully install tile requires a smooth, flat surface to adhere the tiles. Install tile on a floor uneven is a frustrating process that can result in the tiles are easily broken, or that seem damaged the floor, even when new. Follow the steps to create a suitable surface saves time, effort and frustrations, plus help you make a floor attractive and usable.
- Measure the floor area to determine the total number of tiles you’ll need to cover it. Buy the required amount plus an additional 5 percent to be available for cutting tiles to cover areas requiring partial tiles.
- Remove the edge of the floor and baseboards present around the floor, using a metal lever to pull the nails out of the edges. Save any edge or baseboard for use later.
- Examine the soil surface to determine why is uneven. If the surface is uneven due to material damage or incorrect installation thereof, proceeds to level the floor. If damage is caused by a problem in the base floor, repair it and then proceed to level it and install the tiles.
- Repair or replace damaged soils basis. If wood, replaces the wooden panels that form the base floor. If concrete, remove any loose or damaged concrete and fill the cracks in the concrete surface using, before leveling the floor.
- Leveling the floor to provide a flat surface to place the new tile. If the floor is wood, sand any area higher than the rest using a polishing floors, and fill the cracks that may arise. Small cracks must be filled using wood putty spread on the tip of a putty knife, then the section should be sanded with putty until it is flush with the rest of the floor. Fill large cracks with a self-leveling compound distributed evenly with a spatula and let dry. Leveling concrete floor grinding high surface areas with a concrete grinder, then removes dust and spread a layer of self-leveling compound across the floor, and let dry completely.
- Clean the floor completely.
- Measure each wall with tape measure and divide that in half, placing a mark in the center of each wall. One marks two opposite walls with chalk line, up the rope and drop it on the floor to create a line. Do the same with the other walls and get a mark in the exact center of the room.
- Remove the backing paper of self-adhesive tiles and placed the first tile in the center of the room using one of the angles made by the centerlines.
- Continue placing the tiles, using one line to place the first row. Place tile spacers between each tile to provide uniformity and space for the tiles to expand. Continue placing tiles, working from the center out. Next to the walls, may be necessary cut tiles. Measure the space where the tile will be cut and cut before placing the tile using a utility knife or tile cutter. Leave 1/4 inch (0.63 cm) off the wall tiles to expand.
- Big sack separators tiles and using a joint knife, to place grout between the tiles, filling the joints completely. Clean any excess grout with a wet sponge. Let the grout dry from one day to the other and remove any residual grout the tiles with a clean, lint-free towel.
Tips & Warnings
- Heavy machinery, such as polishing floors or concrete grinder can be rented at shops rent equipment or home stores.
- Use latex gloves and a mask while working with concrete, grinding or sanding the floor, to protect you from breathing particles and irritate the skin.
Pipes never horizontally installed through a concrete slab, a slab that is on the floor. All pipes run beneath the slab depths and variable fields on the floor. The lines then “go” vertically through the slab to allow subsequent connections to be made. The process for installing the pipe in a concrete slab is physically demanding and a mechanical precise. You must install the pipe to the exact specifications as detailed in the construction drawings.
- Mark the place where you have to dig to place the pipe using a measuring tape and spray paint. Pay close attention to the measurements shown in the drawings of your building work on the location of each line below the concrete slab. Brand existing pipe lines with a line of spray paint and marks the spot where the pipe will slab with an “X” placed in a circle. Place this mark a few feet of the line that marks where you so do not miss the mark when you dig the trench.
- Excavating the pipe trenches, Depending on the length of the slab and the required placement depth, you may want to use a mechanical digger instead of a shovel hand. Make sure you meet all applicable OSHA regulations for digging a trench safely.
- Install the pipe and all connections in the trenches of your pipes. Make sure the pipe rests on the pipe supports specified in the drawings of your building work type. It provides a vertical connection in places where leaves every pipe must pass through the slab. Make these tubes long enough to extend a minimum of 6 inches (15.23 cm) above the top of the concrete slab.
- Cover the mouths of all outputs heel with tape to prevent debris from entering the pipe. Concrete debris or dirt entering the line can form a blockage in the pipe that you will not notice until the pipe is connected. By then, you’ll have to break the concrete to access the hose off.
- Using a hand shovel or excavator to fill (cover with soil) pipe lines, completely filling the trench so that the backfill is level with the floor of the lower area of the slab.
Tips & Warnings
- Spray paint pipes plumbing lines so they can be easily seen by anyone working in the area of the slab. The tubes cannot be seen often break before the area of the slab is poured with soil preparation for concrete by machines and workers.
- Use appropriate safety equipment when installing any type of pipe. This includes shoes, belts and back support. Even if you’re working with PVC pipe weight can damage your back or crush your feet if they are not properly protected.
A pellet stove is a convenient way to use renewable energy to heat a house. They burn wood chips and other materials. The stoves using augers and hoppers typically filled once a day to feed the flames. The pellet stoves are adapting to places where wood stoves or fireplaces have been used previously. In such cases, the existing chimney or vent can be reused.
- Place the pellet stove into the space in front of the fireplace. This will require a larger breathing tube. Make sure the space between the stove and walls meet the minimum required by the book. Then place it on a fire resistant base, as stone or ceramic tile.
- Place a cover to breath inside the chimney. The cover reduces the size of the vent used for ventilation. The hot gases will rise and will vent above the fireplace. Measure the height of the chimney from a midpoint in the box below it up to 4 inches (10 cm) above the edge of the existing chimney. Breathe weapon cover following the instructions of the company. Wrap insulating cover with the package content and paste it in place. Lower cover from the roof of the house. Hold it in place with the team of the package at the bottom and top.
- Connect the stove in the opening of the bottom of the deck. This may require a piece of pipe with double insulation, depending on the company, the stove model and breathing. Tighten the accessories according to the prompts to create a proper connection between the stove and cover. Connect the stove to the outside fresh air intake and an outlet inside the house.
Tips & Warnings
- The pellet stoves are available as standalone units like the items that could be placed in a fireplace. Fireplaces use the hole in the wall for ventilation. Independent pellet stoves can be vented through the wall, ceiling or an existing fireplace.
- The cover installation breathing needs a job from the ceiling to the lower part of the chimney. Be very careful when working on the roof, to prevent slip and fall.
A floor uneven concrete can be an annoying problem, especially if you plan to install tiles on the floor. To install a concrete material on properly, you must ensure that the floor is level or run the risk of damaging the material. With luck, self-leveling compounds are available to solve this problem. With the compound, you can quickly try lows concrete floor and level the surface.
- Remove all objects on the surface of the concrete floor.
- Sweeping or vacuuming all the dirt and debris from the floor.
- Pour the degreaser on the concrete floor and let stand for 15 minutes.
- Use a plastic bristle brush and scrub the floor vigorously to remove stains of oil and surface marks.
- Rinse the floor with a hose and let dry completely before proceeding with the project.
- Pour the base coat of latex paint tray with roller; apply one coat evenly over the surface of concrete. Let dry overnight.
- Identifies lows surface. It is important to locate points uneven first before applying the compound to be able to work quickly in those places.
- Mix quickly self-leveling compound with cold running water in plastic bucket with a trowel. Read the composite container to define the proper ratio of water and the desired consistency.
- Pour the compound at low points of the floor and gently smoothed with a trowel. It works quickly as the compound is completely cured within 30 minutes of application. You can install the material on the concrete floor 24 hours after compound application.
The damper is a metal plate located inside the chimney of a wood home. It is closed when the stove is not lit to prevent entry of air cool the house. When the fire is lit, the damper must be opened to release the smoke. To handle a lever located in an easily accessible place near the front of the home is used. Over time, the damper may stick, rust, corrode or get out of alignment. Signs that are not working well it is impossible to close or open or closed or incompletely opened, making smoke from entering the house when the home is on or cold air when there is no fire in it.
- Eliminate all wood and ashes home. Bare waste with a hand brush and discarded in a metal bucket. Place a plastic tarp or cloth around the opening and onto the floor in front of the home for protection.
- Use a flashlight to locate the damper in the chimney. You will find 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) from the opening thereof. Toggles to determine what problem you may have. If the damper does not open or does not close, push it by hand. When the boards are exposed, drizzle with a lubricant household. Pull the lever again to see if it works. If you do not open, or if it is not firmly in place to close, proceed to the next step.
- Remove the screws holding the regulator shot turning counterclockwise to clockwise with a wrench. Probably you should spray them with penetrating lubricant rust before unscrewing power. Once you have removed the screws, the damper will move. Turn it sideways enough to slide the metal rod that holds it in place. After removing the rod, the damper should fall fireplace. I inspect it. There may be a large accumulation of creosote, which could hinder the closing set. If so, clean it by scraping with a metal scraper. If the shooting regular or seems bent or damaged in any permanent way, you should replace it.
- Bring the old regulator shooting at a parts store or a big hardware households. Buy a new one the same size as this. It would also be good to buy new screws of the same size as the old ones, if they are deformed or damaged.
- Buy a damper to be about the right size, if you do not get one of the exact same sizes as the old. Place one of an inaccurate size will take more work and costs as you will probably have to remove some of the masonry chimney. It may be less expensive to buy a damper to place in the chimney outlet. One type is placed on the chimney outlet, like a hat, shoes and the other just inside the edge of it. This relatively new style of dampers has the added benefit of keeping out the birds and other small animals in the chimney flue. In both cases, using a lever handle near the front of the home.
Tips & Warnings
- Use gloves, old clothing, a cover for the hair and a cloth over your nose and mouth because while working inside the chimney flue ash falls on you, especially if you remove the old regulator shooting.